Our main holiday this year – Mallorca! 2 weeks full of active outdoor stuff, some work days and then Triathlon preparation. I was sceptical of spending so much time on the island since all I have ever pictured about Mallorca is Ballermann 6 and lots of drunk people, mostly Germans. Not quite the holiday I imagine. But I was convinced otherwise the more we investigated into what the island offers regarding cool climbing locations. And Mallorca has even more to offer than just climbing: hiking, mountainbiking, racebiking, swimming….So we booked our flights and got to Mallorca in the middle of August. Here are a few things we thought worthwhile sharing:
- Getting into the mood – we found that having bought the climbing guide book a few weeks in advance and reading about the places to go, we already got excited about going away to Mallorca lots in advance. The island is big, don’t be mistaken and getting all your gear together might take a while.
- Forgot something? – There are two Decathlon stores in the outskirts of Palma, easily accessible by car. They don’t have the supreme gear, but it will do if you forgot to bring along the odd helmet or T-Shirt.
- Making a home – we were really lucky when we made our bookings, as Miguel had just opened up his quiet country house on AirBnB this summer in Puigpunyent. It is a shared house which can take up to 8 people and you will feel right at home in the village and with Miguel and his family! Puigpunyent is a good place to start your tours, it’s usually a 1-hour trip to get to the climbing spots (lots of curvy little roads) and you don’t have to go through Palma traffic. Besides some dogs in the neighbourhood you will have a very relaxed, quiet stay here.
- Cala Magraner – If you talk to climbers who have been on Mallorca before, they will most likely recommend you to go to this place. And they are right. If you have the recommendation (and now you definitely do), you should try to go there. And go there early. First, the parking spaces are limited and if you get there by 9 am you will get lots of climbing spots in the shade. The sun comes around after 12 pm and then you are going to be in the full sunlight all day long. It’s a great place to combine climbing, swimming and sunbathing, all within a few meters. The bay is quite hidden and due to the long walk, not many tourists find the place. In the evenings, the locals make their way there to go for a swim and enjoy the rest of the sunlight. As for the climbing there is good routes for all levels
- S’estret – It’s a good place to start your climbing tour on Mallorca, perhaps something for your very first afternoon after arriving. In the afternoon the sun is behind the next hill and you will have some nice shades while it is still hot. Also, there are quite a few 4’s and 5’s that are easy to start with. Really worth mentioning is the 4+ in sector Passionata. It’s long, and you follow a long crack in the stone which leads to a nice top out from which you can see Palma, and behind it the sea. Also, you’ll enjoy climbing it!
- You’ve really only come for the climbing? Well, that’s up to you, but if you are into biking you might enjoy going for a racebike tour in the early morning before the heat and go climbing in the afternoons, when there is more shadow in most spots. If you are still up to it you might even go for a small swim at the end of your day. And there you have your #climbathon! We have rented at Berganti bikes and are quite happy with the service and the offer.
- Enjoy tourist stuff – If you would like to see a beautiful sunset, there is a place on the MA-10 between Valdemossa and Deià called Mirador de Na Foradada. If you are early you should get a good parking space on the road side towards the sea just below the road. Be aware, this place is popular and there will be lots of cars and people running around. You can enjoy a beer at the bar top of the restaurant or you can enjoy a dinner at the restaurant, looking into the sunset. It’s a very nice spot and apparently the sunset looks different every day. We were lucky to leave directly after the sunset as everybody will be trying to leave the parking lot at once.
- More climbing – Mallorca is not an easy place to climb and if you come in August you better not like to sleep long. Most walls are facing south and after 12 – 2 pm the sun shines right into the crags and sectors and you’ll heat up quickly. The one sector we really enjoyed, because of its variety in difficulties and also offering some really nice multipitches, was Se Gubia. Especially the 6-pitch level 5 is really great. The first time we ended at pitch 4 and apparently the last two pitches are not the nicest ones. Since this pitch is facing Palma you will have daylight for a long time and can even start climbing the route late into the afternoon. We were lucky that no one else was climbing at the time, so we could easily abseil back to the bottom.
- A nice dinner – In the centre of Puigpunyent are two restaurants we tried: La Rose and La Vila. Both offer enjoyable dishes and high quality service. Definitely a recommendation from us. Plus we enjoyed not being in a tourist place but feeling at the heart of the island.
- Swimming – We tried following recommendations from our host Miguel, but also found a few nice spots ourselves. There is Cala Fornells just around Peguera, Cala Blanca (39.536093, 2.406023) to which you can drive when going through Es Camp de Mar on the MA 1020 towards Port d’Andratx. You will have to watch for the road sign and then follow a road down to the seaside. It is a 60meter walk to the beach. The beach itself is very small, but the bay is a bit protected and you will be able to swim and snorkel very nicely. We also enjoyed Cala Pi de La Posada (39.924937, 3.133213). It is in the north and you have to go through Port to Pollenca and follow the MA-2210 until the very end. We arrived after 6pm and did not have to pay the 9 Euro parking fee any more. But it looked like on good days this place will be packed. Though, if you only go there after climbing, it’s the perfect spot.
That’s Mallorca to us and we enjoyed it very much! If you have more recommendations, please leave them in the comments, thank you 🙂